Stitched-dowh shoe



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SIGMUIl'D JOSEPH PENTLER AND OTTO R. SHORT', OF WAUSAU, WISCONSIN.

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Specification of Letters Patent.

atented Nov. 4, 1919.

Application nledMareh 10, 1919. Serial No. 281,682.

Down bhoes; and we do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact def scription thereof.

Our invention ielates to new and useful improvements in the manufacture ofY that type of shoes known to the-trade as stitchedy down shoes where theedge portieri of the upper is turned outwardly to forni the securing means oi the enters/ole. It is in general the object of our inventionto improve the manufacture of shoes of this character with respect to the provision of an exceed# ingly comfortable and durable shoe at a minimum cost. e

More particularly, it is lan important object of* our. invention to eliminate the necessity of providing a middle sole, technically known as a doubler, between the inner and outer soles, atthe same timev providing a structure which may be readily repaired Without the necessity of destroying thecon nection between the inner sole and the upper.

A further important object resides in the provision of an arrangement of structiu'e "and operative steps wherein a lat insole is afforded in the finished shoe. A more specific object in this coimection resides in the provision of means avoiding the necessity for channelin the insole in the usual manner, thus conc ucing to the desired sxnoothness and latnessthereof, and permit-ting the use of a lighter and cheaper insole than would otherwise be necessary.

A still further object resides in the provision of a shoe of this character which is very pliable and which will at the same time retain its shape for a maximum length of time under conditions of use.

With the above and other objects inv uv, which will be apparent as the description roceeds, our invention resides in the novel Ieatures` of construction, combination and arrangeuient oit' parts as hereinafter described and defined by the `appended claims, it being understood that changes in the precise embodiment might be made by those skilled inthe art, without departing from the spirit ot' the invention.

Figure l is a bottom view of the Ashoe embodying our invention, portions thereof being broken away and portions being turned back to more'clearly show the invention.

Fig. 2 is a transverse sectional view through the Shoe on the plane indicated by the line 2 in Fig. l.

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary view on la plane similar to Fig. 2 and showing the first step in my improved method.

Fig. e is a view similar to Fig. 3 but showing a slightly modified structure. Y

Referring now more particularly to the accompanying drawings, in carrying out our invention We first tack an inner sole 5 to the usual last A, and this inner sole, by reason oi the advantages procured by our improved construction, maybe of relatively light and cheap material. We then pull the upper leather 6 and the lining 7 over the last and fasten them temporarily with tacks t. It is noted that the'outer edge portion of the inner sole may be beveled as wt 8, al-

though this need not necessarily be the case.

`Vile then sew the upper leather and lining the edge portionl of the inner sole by stitching 9 which extends through the iup-per leather and lining and through the edge portions of the inner sole longitudinally between its top and bottom faces, said stitches being arcuate in their extent through the inner soleand emerging from the same at its beveled or Aother edge portion and at its un der face inwardly of itsJ edge portion. The stitching 9 is thus not exposed at 'the upper surface of the inner sole, said upper surface being thus entirely' flat for engagement with the foot of the wearer, whereby to eliminate the necessity lining.

The next step is to dispose ofthe surplus edge portion ot' the lining 7, either by trininiingsaid edge portion, or as shown in the drawingsl by cenientin" the lining edge portion to the bottom of the inner sole it being particularly noted that at any event the lining is positively and permanently secured in place bythe stitching 9. The linal step is to turn out the edge of the uppei leather at the line of Aengagement of the stitching 9 therewith and to lay the outer sole 10 and apply the usual stitching 11, securing'l said of providing the usual sock wear are procured by this particular arrangement, a machine made shoe constructed by this process being fully as fiexible as a hand-turned shoe, since there is no bindin'g action in connection with a plurality of lines of stitches, as in a Goodyear shoe. ln our improved shoe the welting strip is thus only utilized for the sake of appearance, and to form a proper binding for the stitching ll, and the welting may be eliminated in,so far as the essential connections of our shoe parts is concerned. By leaving the welt free from direct connection with the inner sole, we eliminate a considerable degree of wear and stress on the inner sole, which is a decided advantage since for purposes of economy it is desirable to make the inner sole of relatively weak and cheaper'material,

'and in many types of shoes the inner sole is the first point of failure upon wear.

A slightly modified structure is shown in Fig. i wherein an exceedingly cheap form of an insole is provided comprisinga leather section 59 having a facing of canvas 5b cemented to its underV surface, the stitching 9 being appliedin the usual manner and passing throu h the inner sole structure at approximately the juncture -of its sections. We thus provide, in a most economical .manner, an exceedingly flexible and durable shoe which affords a maximum degree of comfort to the wearer and which may bereadily re` paired, inasmuch as in repair it is merely necessary to remove the stitching 1l thus releasing the outer sole and weltiug for substitution by a new outer sole and weltiug, the securement of the upper leather and lining tothe inner sole being in no wise affected,

thus retaining the original sha-pe of the shoe.

It is further particularly noted that we entirely avoid the usual channeling operation on the inner sole, thus eonducing to a the inner: sole, and the consequent necessity of a filler for such space.

While we have shown and described a preferred embodiment of our invention, it will be appreciated that various changes and modifications of structure and of operative steps may be resbrted to to meet differing requirements in the finished shoe and different conditions of the material worked upon, without departing in any manner from the spirit of our invention as interpreted by the appended claims, and which resides essentially in the idea of sewing the upper directly to the inner sole.

lVhat is claimed is:

l. A stitched-down shoe comprising an inner sole, an upper stitched' directly to the inner sole and having its edgeportion out-v turned from the inner sole, and an outer sole y having its edge portion engaged directly with said out-turned edge portion of the upper, a welting strip disposed on said outt-urned edge portion of the upper, the inner edge of said welting strip engaging the side of the upper and serving to hold ,the turnedl edge portion of the upper against the outer sole, stitching passed' through said welting strip, outer sole and the out-turned edge portion of the upper, said welting strip being free from direct connection with the innerI sole. 2. A stitched-down shoe comprisingan innersole, an upper and lining stitched di.- rectly to the inner sole, 'the edge portion of the lining being turned inwardly againstthe inner sole, the edge portion of the upper be SIGMUN D .JOSEPH OTTO R. SHORT.

PENTLER.

l forward of the 

